The airstrip is by a white beach on the south side of Ofu, about an hour's walk from Olosega village, and it's still possible to have to yourself this quintessential Polynesian paradise of swaying palms, magnificent reef, and rugged mountains rising out of the sea. The beach and reef between the airstrip and the bridge are now part of National Park of American Samoa. Flying foxes are common along the south coast in the late afternoon.
To climb to the former television tower atop Ofu's Tumutumu Mountain (494 meters), take the concrete ramp up the hill from near the wharf at Alaufau village and keep straight ahead for five km on a track cut by a bulldozer decades ago. It's not hard to follow if you avoid turns and descents. Continue up to the ridge top, then over the well wooded mountain to Leolo Ridge (458 meters). There's ample shade in the morning when the sun is still on an angle. The best views are obstructed by trees.
For Olosega's Piumafua Mountain, follow the road through the village south almost to Maga Point, then cut back up along the ridge to the 639-meter summit. Unfortunately, the route is now completely overgrown and only practical with a local guide able to chop a way forward. The cloud forest atop the steep hill after you think you've hit the peak is like the Old Forest in The Lord of the Rings. No goblins—only mosquitoes—but be very careful not to get turned around, as the trees cut off the view, and it's easy to get lost.This is one of Manu'a's best bird-watching trips, with nesting boobies on the point and ground-doves in the lower forest.
There's no trail along Olosega's forbidding east coast.
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